Here's another gem from spring '08. Our first voyage into the high peaks of the Tetons for a strictly skiing objective was aimed at the classic Ellingwood couloir. We were initially discouraged by a 6 foot runnel in the lower couloir, but found good smooth firm snow higher up. The snow climbing was broken up by well placed rock ledges allowing opportunity for photos and time to take in the steepness. This route was first ascended in fall 1923 and is generally considered to be an easy 5th class rock climb at that time of year. Rapid warming in the sun scared us into starting our decent about 30 meters below the Dike Pinnacle col. Good, good steep skiing took us back to our tent where we brewed up and turned our attention to the shady south side of the canyon. We summited the South Teton and skied from the highest snow in the Northwest couloir all the way back to camp, a nice long run. After packing up we linked turns down to the meadows where we were greeted by green grass and running water.

This one is from last June. We finally nailed this one on our 3rd try. On the first try, after pouring over the topo we decided on a better way than that suggested by the book. Obviously this didn't work. We tried again but missed the recommended drainage. Each try was a brutal 15 hour day complete with bushwacking out the same wrong drainage both times after dark. Doh! This wrong drainage contained a very climbable looking 500 ft spire and the remnants of a good looking steep ice climb of similar height. On the second atempt I rounded a corner at 6:00 AM and was sure to let the critters know I was coming. Sure enough, around the bend A grizzly bear was fleeing the scene. Try number 3 ensured that we stuck to the book. In no time we were beneath the East col, wondering if the snow was too soft to climb safely. As we watched, two goats traversed the col and sent down a number of wet slides providing us with safe passage up the slope! Stashing our ski just above the col, we 4th classed up snowy rock to a small alcove where we roped up. 30 meters of 7.9mm rope folded in half connecting us, we simul climbed to the summit. Incoming weather made our decision not to make the knife edge rock traverse to the slightly higher North summit. Because our rope was so short, rappeling wasn't really an option so we quickly down-simul climbed to our stashed skis and made haste. From just above the East col we set off wet slides with every turn.

Today Pete and I summited Yet another peak. We tried to do this one yesterday but, following someone else's skin tracks we ended up on A different one. Today under snowy skies the NE ridge was classic! At one point I straddled the knife edge snow ridge with the East face on my left and the North couloirs on my right! The photo shows Pete negotiating the final rock section with the North East ridge in the background. Our ski decents of both Peaks were both fairly modest lines.

We did this one a few years back. When it first came into view I remember thinking, "that's not so big..". Soon I was reminded that it was still over 200 miles to Mt. Rainier. For a montanan, climbing Rainier felt a bit like joining the circus. It was definitely harder to obtain climbing and camping permits for Rainier than it was to get accepted to MSU. Paul, Will, Aaron and I had all done both and with cliche Russian nicknames, bad Russian accents and hammers and sickles drawn on to each of our 50 wands we were gonna have a go at skiing the 10,000 vertical foot Emmons route. Day one was mosly dirt trail for about 4 miles. We made it real easy on ourselves and took 2 days to get to Camp Schurman. Skinning up the interglacer i began to realize how big this mountain was. Stark contrast to the hills in Montana where ranges dominate, this mountain was clearly a range in itself. At 10,000 feet, Camp Schurman is pretty high for city folk. We hiked up and took fine corn turns while folks from Seattle stooped over, gasping for starbucks. A leasiurly 7:00 AM start to 5,000 ft of cramponing, taking in the view of the top of the clouds, summit day went smoother than hoped. 5,000 ft of 35-45 degree hard pack safety turning brought us back to camp. All geared up we commicly mached down the glacier entirely too fast infront of a dozen or so seattleites. Skiing down the inter glacer was like a ski-majic carpet ride for hundereds of turns. Fog kept visibility at 15 meters, adding to the effect. About 6 hours after the summit, we were at our car. Only then did we realize that we had forgoten to retrieve our lone placed wand. We though the headlines might read, "Unregistered Russian Team Dissapears on Ranier". I had the lowest body weight to pack ratio and had lost 15 pounds in 3 days! Great trip!

'07-'08 was a substantial year for snowfall in This neck oh the woods. This snowpack really extended the season and allowed for some great, safe big mountain lines into July including what arguably our best alone am i line. This couloir shines above most when it comes to vert, consistent pitch and fall line, stunning location and shear aesthetics. A July morning found Geoff, Pat and I on our way to the base of the couloir. Our camp was set eight or so miles back amongst thriving alpine turf, rolling blue water. and crowned with snow adorned peaks. Not because of our alpine start we made good time up the couloir swapping leads around 1 snow picked and a few pieces of rock pro. We passed a party of 2, one of which, from Michigan I believe, had forgotten his crampons! We all got a few grey hairs after seeing him slip on the near 50 degree pitch, begin sliding and self arrest just before going for the big ride. Only then did they rope up. After reaching the col, summiting and returning to the col we found the party of 2 stalled out 20 meters below. They graciously accepted a belay, then expressed their disbelief in our plans to ski the couloir. We expressed our disbelief in the midwesterner reaching the col without crampons! I took a belay into the 60 degree, icy, 200cm wide boot backed entrance. At 120 feet their rope kinked up and i could go no further. Untieing felt like stepping into space. Now closer to 50 degrees but still icy the slope held my focus. I skied to a safe spot and waited for Geoff and Pat who opted to rappel in and gear up on the rocks. This was Geoff's first rappel ever! We all met up then skied 2600 ft straight down to our camp. Cheers!