This one is from last June. We finally nailed this one on our 3rd try. On the first try, after pouring over the topo we decided on a better way than that suggested by the book. Obviously this didn't work. We tried again but missed the recommended drainage. Each try was a brutal 15 hour day complete with bushwacking out the same wrong drainage both times after dark. Doh! This wrong drainage contained a very climbable looking 500 ft spire and the remnants of a good looking steep ice climb of similar height. On the second atempt I rounded a corner at 6:00 AM and was sure to let the critters know I was coming. Sure enough, around the bend A grizzly bear was fleeing the scene. Try number 3 ensured that we stuck to the book. In no time we were beneath the East col, wondering if the snow was too soft to climb safely. As we watched, two goats traversed the col and sent down a number of wet slides providing us with safe passage up the slope! Stashing our ski just above the col, we 4th classed up snowy rock to a small alcove where we roped up. 30 meters of 7.9mm rope folded in half connecting us, we simul climbed to the summit. Incoming weather made our decision not to make the knife edge rock traverse to the slightly higher North summit. Because our rope was so short, rappeling wasn't really an option so we quickly down-simul climbed to our stashed skis and made haste. From just above the East col we set off wet slides with every turn.